After a few days watching the wind flag flap and bend in the wind, we made the decision to head south again, taking advantage on the way of the world-class ski resort at Brighton, 25 miles from Salt Lake City. We scored a mid-week deal at a crack den lodge offering a mid-week special including lift tickets, and that had the added bonus of being 20 metres from the chair lift. More snow than either of us had ever experienced provided two pain-filled but fantastic days of flinging ourselves down the slopes in a variety of ways. Night skiing is a whole new way to find icicles hanging from your nostrils, the temperature plummeted to nearly 20 below and every part of us was numb. What better condition to attempt our first-ever time on skis! Snowboarding had kicked our butts in every way possible, so we traded the comparatively comfy snowboard boots for the clunky and immovable ski version. Within seconds of tightening the clips we had toe cramps, calf pain and an inability to walk. This, we found, is a mandatory part of skiing.
Ski school is for sissies. With great effort we clicked ourselves in, and headed for the kiddy lift. Full of self-congratulation while we were seated, this quickly turned to apprehension when the slight slope at the end of the lift appeared in view. Disembarking could have been a myriad of skis, poles, limbs and swearing, but we both adopted the 'snow plow' face, planted feet and prayed. Five metres of ungraceful skidding later, we were still standing and ready to tackle a very mild slope.
Ten minutes later, we were rock-stars. "This isn't even that hard!", "I'm so fast, I don't even need the pizza stance!", "Let's go on a blue run!" We did. We fell over and got back up (that is a challenge on skis!). We didn't break any legs, and when the lifts closed we collapsed into pizza bliss, bruised and battered and content.
We were done with Salt Lake City, and Moab was calling. We spent two blissful weeks in Moab, which is paradise on Earth for any mortal in favour of the outdoors. Hiking, BASE-jumping, abseiling, skydiving, slacklining, climbing, mountain-biking, kayaking, it's all being done there. If the USA would be so kind to impart Green Cards upon us, we could both happily live in Moab. It is so unlike the rest of Utah - it is open-minded, organic, hip, culturally aware and a hive of adventure. After watching hours of video footage of other people having fun in Moab, it was fantastic to finally be experiencing it. We met such amazing people, and that place will be etched on our souls forever.
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| An aerial photograph of Moab, taken during a skydive. What a landscape, what a place |
Our route south took us to Zion National Park, where we hiked impressive cliffs and slept in our rented Hyundai Santa Fe to save money. Bolted climbs are in place so we took a rope and found out that cold rock cracks can cause hand cramps. We were too tight-assed to pay the ludicrous camping fees, so for 3 days we washed in the freshly-melted Colorado river inside the park. I'm sure there are a number of Asian tourists who are showing the photos of this to their families as I write this. The temperature of that water was barely above freezing, so to save the brain-freeze I had to bend double to dunk my hair into the river. I shudder to think what their photos must look like!
In the Grand Canyon, we struck gold. A friend of a friend is the park electrician, and he was happy to have a couple of house-guests. His house also had a shower, which we embraced with gusto. Amazing to be clean again! We hiked down the Canyon, ate lunch surrounded by squirrels, and hiked back out again. We got up on sub-zero mornings to watch the sun rise over the expansive canyon, and caught a bus west to watch the sunset from a famous lookout. The Grand Canyon is hard to explain, and even harder to capture in photographs. It's the epitomy of three-dimensional landscape.
From Arizona, we drove west to Las Vegas. Weeks of outdoor purity had not prepared us for the batshit-crazy onslaught of Sin City, and we explored the Strip in wonder at the amount of lights and gambling and general debauchery. In our time there, we lost exactly $3USD with our wild ways. The amount we started with was an astounding $3USD - beginner's luck is a fallacy! We met some hard-core beer enthusiasts from Minnesota who gave us tickets for a free mechanical bull-ride. Adam proved to us that Australians, like cowgirls, prefer a ride that lasts longer than 8 seconds - he fought to stay on the thing for close to a minute and was cheered from the ring by at least 300 drunk Americans.
Our GPS had the last laugh in the USA, nearly causing us to miss our flight to Canada when it failed to direct us to the return address of our rental car company. We left with plenty of time to spare, only to be guided to suburban nothingness. A tow-truck driver kindly directed us to the airport car rental building, only to find that our company was in a separate location. We rang the company, only to be given a very vague description of the location and told it was on the side of a major freeway. Finally, we found it by chance and our relief was palpable.
Landing in Edmonton, the runway was white. The paddocks were white, the buildings were white and the people wore many layers. I arrived perfectly prepared for this scenario with only the clothes I was wearing on the plane, thanks to a bungle by Air Canada.
Day two we bought a car. In Canada, a car is a minimum of a V6 SUV. Ours cost $2,000, bargain! A mandatory vehicle inspection cost us a further $100, and the required repairs were a further $2,000...bargain??! Two return trips to a Calgary mechanic later, it sounds like a normal truck, drives like a normal truck and is big enough for us to sleep in it when we go camping in the summer. It is also the first vehicle we have ever owned with a sun roof! Plus it's red...
Day five we moved to Adam's new workplace, the Edmonton Skydive Centre, in Westlock - an hour's drive from Edmonton. Offered accommodation in a series of dwellings/caravans affectionately named the "Ghetto", we lost no time in renting the largest room in a well-heated demountable with a full kitchen, lounge and three bedrooms but minus running water. The front steps were a broken leg waiting to happen; 10 cm covered in slick ice. The driveway is further covered by at least 30 inches of snow/ice/mud and the skydiving landing area is in the same boat - welcome to springtime in Alberta!
Day six we cleaned up our dwelling. Amongst other things we found: a collection of toenails, a bag of last year's rubbish, a chicken bone in the lounge carpet, at least 45c worth of pennies, a bucket of rat bait including a collection of skeletons of the victims, and two electric bug swatters. Two bottles of bleach and a tank full of water later, we have de-scunged, vacuumed, scrubbed and removed the above offending items. Our kitchen boasts a chandelier that Adam has polished to showroom standards (a little ironic when the water pipes are frozen and unusable!), but the best part of our accommodation is the furnace that keeps the temperature a steady 23 degrees C. The one night the furnace went out, we woke up to the sight of our breath, lino floors that numbed the feet instantly, icicles on the insides of the windows, and a very short breakfast - our subsequent appreciation for the furnace cannot be compared! I'm personally looking forward to May, the time in which our tap water will apparently start flowing - the sensation of using an outdoor toilet covered in 2 cm of fresh powder is hard to explain...
So in the last four months, we have effectively given up our previous life, our significant incomes, everything we owned, our friends, family and inner-city lifestyle and taken a chance on a small-town, dirt road, freezing cold dropzone on the other side of the world. We clean our teeth outside in sub-zero temperatures, we spend our days rolling around a pack-mat with two large German Shepherds, we do our grocery shopping in gumboots and taking a shower is a once-every-few-days luxury. Do we have regrets? Not one. Already we have friends and companions and the formation of a fun-filled life. Our savings account has suffered but every penny spent has been worth it. I am still able to work in the science field but Adam is finally chasing the career he has been talking about for five years. We both miss the people from our life back home but have taken this very crucial step to enrich our lives and relationship overall. We are back to the real world and this is just the first chapter of our plans.
Money is not worth sacrificing your life for, buy a packet of fortune cookies and do what makes you happy before it's too late.
Blue skies,
E xx |